26/09/2022

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Kenzo channels preppy, Celine goes for razzmatazz in Paris

Kenzo channels preppy, Celine goes for razzmatazz in Paris

PARIS (AP) — Kenzo’s designer, Nigo, located his groove for his sophomore assortment at the LVMH-owned home, drawing vivid parallels with residence founder Kenzo Takada.

Nigo has built background as the to start with Japanese designer to entrance the residence considering the fact that Takada, who died in 2020.

But beyond the style, Nigo — who has designed significant profile collaborations with Pharrell — has actual star attraction, at the time again pulling in top VIPs this time such as Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.

Here are some highlights of Sunday’s spring-summer months 2023 menswear collections in Paris.

KENZO’S Back again IN THE GROOVE

Established in a school corridor and with a pervading 70s, preppy vibe, Nigo channeled the dazzling hues and mix-and-match cultural fusion that grew to become synonymous with the house’s origins.

Hanging from the roof have been flags looking at “Kenzo 1970.” For pupils of style, a reference not lost: This date was not only the 12 months Takada introduced his to start with fashion clearly show in the Galerie Vivienne in Paris in entrance of his new store, Jungle Jap, but it was also the yr of Nigo’s delivery.

Funky scarves, a get on Boy Scout styles, morphed into colored lapels on satisfies that riffed on uniform.

A bright yellow patch-loaded waistcoat had an African vibrancy and mixed with Breton striped scarves, nautical themes and Asian cross-around kinds in jackets. It established a dynamic cultural melting pot.

But it was the quirkiness and humor that defined spring-summer in this potent clearly show — thick woolen socks on canary yellow flip flops, crimson flower appliques and multicolored bowler hats.

Nigo, 51, is only the second Asian designer at the head of a European significant vogue label, alongside Bally’s Filipino-American Rhuigi Villaseñor. His appointment continues to characterize a milestone as the luxurious marketplace wrestles additional broadly with inquiries around racism and diversity.

CELINE’S RAZZMATAZZ

Screaming and crying fans thronged each sides of Paris’ Palais de Tokyo noisily forward of Celine’s Sunday night time display. Nonetheless they had not turned out for designer Hedi Slimane’s fashions, but for glimpse of just one the world’s most adulated popstars: Kim Taehyung, aka V from BTS, the multimillion disc advertising South Korean boy band.

Inside of the location, proceedings about the spring-summertime collection staging have been marginally calmer. Friends swigged on “CELINE” branded mini champagne bottles, as huge summary mirrors descended on cords from the ceiling reflecting gentle in all instructions to funky rock music.

Adolescent designs with shaggy hair stomped grumpily previous, in the designer’s signature design, showcasing his early 70s variations that were on large the shimmer and riffed on LA rock.

Winklepickers and blue drainpipe jeans were capped with fringed black leather-based coats and shades — in the Franco-Tunisian’s designer’s tried-and-examined kinds. Black, gently flared trousers have been applied as a backdrop for assertion fringed coats and jackets. A single came in stunning gold sequins.

Nevertheless in spite of the razzmatazz, there was very little new below in the designer’s repertoire. For Slimane, who shopped a related aesthetic at Saint Laurent with panache, it is a scenario of “if it ain’t broke, do not fix it.”

WOOYOUNGMI’S Mild CONTRADICTIONS

Sobriety met moments of punk — and the “late-1990s skateboarding community” — in South Korean designer Woo Younger Mi’s assortment on Sunday, held in the ornate interiors of Paris’ Musee des Arts Decoratifs.

Stylish tailoring on fits, this kind of as a double breasted variety that opened the show with a delicate nip at the waists, contrasted with white sneakers and vests. It created for a deft enjoy in contradiction.

Pants have been a large theme — developed in a fashionable 90s dishevelled type. They hung in a beautiful curved condition at the bottom of the leg.

There were being times of sensuality — and humor — in the course of this 42-piece co-ed demonstrate that marked two decades given that the brand name was released. Just one tactile and semi-transparent blue punk vest was worn by a product with greasy grungy hair who held a posh sq. leather bag.

THOM BROWNE’S INFINITE Versions

It was a performative runway situation for fit-loving Thom Browne, as VIPs which includes Farida Khelfa — dressed head to toe in the designer’s garb — arrived theatrically to just take their seats just after the exhibit experienced apparently started. Company ended up in stitches laughing at what seemed to be intentional choreography.

A odd retro voiceover then signaled the “real” demonstrate would commence — as a male product with huge, spiky punk hair strutted out in an ecru personalized jacket, tie and shorts.

Pastel gray tweeds in contrasting designs – and with multitudinous levels that were completely unfit for the spring-summer time season – adopted. They had been worn by a product with a attractive anchor covering his encounter holding a hound-formed bag, and a “35” sign in the custom of previous-school couture, which featured numbered appears to be like.

Stripy socks, customized shorts, tweed skirts, black briefcases and patterned pastel suits in checks and stripes produced what seemed like infinite variants on the same theme.